CHERRY DB3 PDF

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There have been 2 images uploaded to this topic. View topic image gallery. Looking for some helpful advice in selecting replacement Cherry micro switches for replacements in WMS 90’s games.

Unfortunately these are no longer available. The tech details for these switches were as follows The question I have is the operating force figure.

I’ve seen it written elsewhere that this figure is the force required to operate the switch contacts. However when you read the above information, taken directly from the Cherry catalogue, it states as I’ve copied above “Maximum Operating Force”. I’ve seen other restorers here on Pinside use that same switch in their restorations. Has anyone had any experience with the various types of these switches? Can I use a switch with a higher operating force rating and be assured the switch is going to operate each and every time when installed in the game?

Isn’t the actual arm used on the switch of concern? There are dozens of different arms on often the same, or only a few, switches? Honestly, the ‘operating force’ is unnecessary – a metal ball even a ceramic ball like a powerball will supply PLENTY of force, no matter what the operating force. Any microswitch should work – the latest version is the D3B, I believe, but it’s been a while since I looked. This one details the original DA3 micro switch that was originally used and is now no longer available.

This one details the DB Series of mirco switches and as you can see there is a variety available. I am looking at the bare switch without any actuator at all. The details above are all related to switches without any actuator installed.

Basically replacements for the switch body only. That’s what I am trying to determine. However I have seen restorers here on Cberry use the DB3 switch. I’m hoping someone with experience of these switches installed in a game can chime in. I actually found the switch in GBLE on the left ramp to be too stiff. Either one being a better db33 would have mitigated the problem. I prefer a lighter trigger cherr to ensure that very fast shots still trigger reliably. Again – the mounting method, case, is identical.

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The only difference is the electrical ratings. And honestly, if you’re worried about puttin’ v through that switch, you have bigger issues with your switch matrix. Find the cheapest switch body you can from local electronics stores – DB1 through DB7. Operating temp won’t matter, unless you plan on playing your machine in Space or on the Sun.

Other than that, the switch body is exact between the models so there’s no difference in mounting or wiring. Take the old metal actuator off the old switch, pop it onto the new one, and you’re good to go. Note that there are two locations for the actuator to mount – cherrg it in the same one for the same result though, not cherru of you want to move it. Thanks, that’s the feedback I was looking for.

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I’ve cheryr elsewhere that others have found similar issues with higher rated Max Force Rating switches. Hearing what others are using is interesting. If the actuator is installed on the close mounting tabs, it increases the force necessary but increases the range needed to actuate the switch.

When mounted on the far tabs, the force needed is dropped considerably, but the motion of xb3 actuator is limited. A wrong actuator, or actuator mounted in the wrong position for the application can cause issues, definitely. Personally, I don’t see that as a fault of the switch itself. A wrong actuator, or badly-designed one.? Yes I agree with that logic.

Cherry Microswitches in WMS games

Surely there must be some applications in games where this will be an issue? I mean, I’m not familiar with every. But again, each game is different. Has anyone used DB2 switches? I can chergy those locally at a very good price, they have a contact rating of 10A and a max operating force of gms.

Lets resurrect this old thread It is still very relevant for me. In my experience DB3 is fine for most cases, except where the actuator arm is cuerry short or the ball needs to clear the switch from a slow speed.

For example, DB3 switches won’t do well in a Stern trough because a resting ball won’t start rolling when resting on a switch. I have been searching for a replacement switch for those rare cases where DB3 gives problems.

This is what I found: Subminiature DA series http: Also, InZF bought Cherry. The only difference with DA series is that it has a shorter ‘overtravel’. Although DB2 has a lower activation force, it also has a shorter lifespan less cycles. Best price indication I could find so far: I have not installed it into a machine yet but I think it is a suitable replacement. I just don’t want to pay 10 euro per switch like I did then. I have 50, switches and blades work perfect been making up all the different replacements switches for over 10 years.

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The Honeywell ZM series seems to be a good replacement for the DA series for its low activation force, but it has fixed levers.

You would have to find the variant with the matching lever.

ZM10B70F01 seems to be a fitting replacement for rollerblade switches, such as the Stern trough switches. I’m going to try it later. The DB3 series requires a high activation force of about gms. For most cases, DB3 is ok. We are looking for an alternative for the cases where it is not ok.

Ideal for replacing switches in Stern troughs. No balls getting stuck on the roller lever. Unfortunately these have a fixed lever so you need to find the version with the correct lever if you need it elsewhere. See the datasheet for options. Hard to get and expensive unfortunately Very interested in what you find. I have also replaced switches and found that they can be quite different. I had to bend the original actuator arm that I moved to the new switch to make it work.

This DB switch at Digikey indicates it just needs 60 gf: Great to see you’re enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get a next to your username to show for it! By Pinballer73 2 years ago. You You are not signed in!

Linked Games No games have been linked to this topic. Topic Gallery There have been 2 images uploaded to this topic. Sorry, no images have been uploaded yet. Pinballer73 Pinside member Moe 7y 35, 1.

Lever actuator Cherry DB3

The full catalogue can be found here Homepin Inactive member Unknown 7y 77, 2, 1. Coyote Pinside member 4y 73, 5, Ballypinball Pinside member Melbourne 14y 61, 1, 37 1. I’m interested in joining an order if you want to enquire about the availability and cost. The db3 switch replacements used a special lever that had a round indentation on the blade I have 50, switches and blades work perfect been making up all the different replacements switches for over 10 years.

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