Neil Gresham tells us how to get stronger but stay safe when using a campus- board training to gain strength and endurance. In order for you to get the most out of this short Fall climbing season, try increasing your contact and core strength with campus board training. Learning how to. When it comes to training one of the most intimidating tools we can think of is the campus board. We know that this big, imposing board covered.

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When it comes to training one of the most intimidating tools we can think of is the campus board. We know that this big, imposing board covered in vexing little rungs is an effective training tool, but it can be hard to even know how to begin to use it. Over trainig years I have gone back and forth between various training techniques and devices—everything from fingerboards, rock rings, systems boards, and even plain traniing pull-up bars—until finally settling on just one: Which, like the lever, screw, pulley, and wedge, is a simple machine, at least where climbing is concerned.

That being said, tdaining person who has been climbing for less than two years should not be using a campus board. The first months or so should be dedicated solely to climbing and training by climbing, until your tendons can handle the additional pressure of campusing.

This also applies to youth. Then refer to the list of campus board exercises below! Deadhangs Beginners I learned to campus by campusing. And watching loads of YouTube videos. Consequently, I close-crimped every rung until someone politely tapped me on the shoulder and explained that I was destroying my tendons.

First rule of campus rungs: As a guideline, pay attention to your index finger, which should be relatively traiing. And try to use four fingers, since that is tfaining relevant to climbing than just three fingers.

To start, try this: Finger pull-ups Advanced Imagine the following scenario: The crux move involves throwing from a decent rail to a thin right-hand crimp. You brace yourself and go for broke. Your fingers hit the crimp precisely; however, you are unable to close your hand enough to make the subsequent move.

Finger pull-ups may be your answer. The idea is to go from an open-hand grip to a closed crimp while keeping your elbows straight, but not hyper-extended. To prime your fingers, start by keeping your feet on a small ledge before progressing to the full bodyweight version. A pulley can also be utilized.


Campus board

Up-down movement Beginners Campusboadr the first two years of doing campus rungs, I would warm up with up-down repetitions. However, this exercise is easily made more difficult by reaching higher with your moving arm, coming down below your anchor arm, and increasing speed and number of repetitions.

For a power endurance workout, start matched on a rung, explode off one arm and tap the highest rung you can reach, then come back down to the rung you started on and go immediately with the trining side. Do many sets and with little rest seconds.

Bumps Advanced There are two types of bumps: The clip below depicts an up-down bump, where you bump up to the highest rung you can stick then bump back down to the starting rung. Conversely, a max effort bump involves bumping up until you fall. As with up-down movement, the difficulty can be increased by reaching higher with your moving arm, skipping rungs when bumping down, and coming down below your anchor arm.

The most basic ladder, shown below, entails starting matched on a rung, campusing to the top rung without skipping or matching rungs, matching the campueboard rung, then down-campusing in a taining manner. Exclude the down-campus until you are comfortable campusing to the top. For a power endurance workout perform reps ladders each rep with minute rests in between. Ladder traverses Advanced Essentially, ladders on steroids. Up, down, traverse, up, down, traverse, up, down…you get the idea.

Sustained, great for endurance, and incredibly tolling. Putting it All Together: A Caampusboard to Sequences Sequences are perhaps the most efficient and easy-to-regulate campus rung exercise. A sequence refers to a certain way of moving up the rungs, by skipping predetermined numbers of rungs.

Though sequences emphasize lock-offs, they are equally taining for working power and deadpoints. Now ca,pusboard you move on, let me explain what the numbers mean. Take for example The first number, 0, denotes the number of rungs in between your two hands at the starting position.

In this case, 0 means you start on two consecutive rungs. The second trxining, 2, refers to the number of rungs you are skipping with the lower hand, counted from the rung you have your anchor hand on the lower hand ALWAYS moves first.

The third number, 0, refers to how many rungs your anchor hand goes above the moving hand. Anytime you see the letter M, you are starting or ending matched on a rung. This should make more sense after watching the clips below.


Campus board – Wikipedia

Try,MM, and M! There are countless possibilities. Still tgaining enough flexibility? Install a rung in between two rungs to help you make that next step. Wear a weight vest. Purchase campus rungs here. Standard spacing is 22 cm on a 15 degree overhang. Thanks for all the tips Galina! If you want to learn more about Galina and her training methods, check out her blog Climberina and if you have questions cakpusboard training, she has been generous enough to offer our readers consultation if you contact her through Facebook.

That means I can ignore those devils trainong a while longer! Thanks for the very helpful instructions! No wonder you crushed all the rigs in Ten Sleep! Hey Brittany — we actually have a whole post on that! Campus boards ARE intimidating. When you are on one people tend to turn their head your way. The combination of paragraphs and video work well to introduce the trainig.

Thanks this is awesome! I really want to work on contact strength and power but am not able to do more than 4 ladders in a row I can do many sets of four though. Campuaboard you recommend continuing the ladder sets of 4 or doing more with feet on or something else?

I appreciate all of the information regarding working out using the campus board.

I like that you took the time to mention steps for beginners as well as experts on how they can get better at it. One thing that would be great would be to use a strong board to show the all-time records and motivate those who are working out. Crux Crush We’ve got a crush on all things climbing.

I have been climbing for at least 18 months. I am at least 16 years old. I have not recently had reoccurring pain in my fingers, elbows, or shoulders. Exercise 1 Deadhangs Beginners I learned to campus by campusing. Exercise 2 Up-down movement Beginners For the first two years of doing campus rungs, I would warm up with up-down repetitions.

The Yoga Warm Up for Climbing. September 15, at September 23, at October 5, at 3: January 5, at 2: January 6, at 9: Campusbard 11, at 9: April 18, at 2: July 1, at September 16, at 1: February 25, at 7: October 11, at February 2, at 7: October 25, at May 17, at

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