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Users browsing this forum: Google [Bot]Robert B and 1 guest. D – Robert B’s PC builds – oogle away freely: Mobile HDD rack 3. B Silence 80 mm Less effort than the 5×86 build. Last edited by Robert B on Pentium MHz – SX 6. Pentium MHz – SY 7. Pentium MHz – SY 8. A very versatile platform. At the moment of the assembly I didnt have a spare tranzistor. Later, just by sheer luck I found a suitable replacement from a ceased fan from a slot A heatsink.
I made the transplant and the motherboard works This transitor was separated from its shell by the CPU clamp. Very good placemnt Mr. Keep up the GOOD work The last AT case I had was in bad shape. I couldn’t find a smaller one localy so I had to improvize: D All the switches from the local electronics shop were without release, meaning that once pressed they would not return back and after a few seconds the system would power down.
To make things worse the prongs on which the switch had to be screwed were ripped off and I had to rebuild them. All in all it was worth the effort.
The metal cover of 5api61 case was roughed up and I decided to wrap it up instead of painting it. Medium effort – smaller than the 5×86 build but greater than the Pentium III 5alii61 gallery: But for now I’ll let you to digest the above photos A lot more to follow!
I was quite pissed for giving away my first PC back in ’98 or ‘ I was young and foolish. The seed that started everything: Man it was expensive Around then I changed my Tatung 14″ monitor to a 15″ Viewpoint. Any other colour and it just would fail. I found it at my cousin’s place If only I could find the picture with me acorl my budy in “98 when we had a lan party with Descent, Duke Nukem etc.
The case was like the one in the 5×86 build but with pink accents. Little did I know that this would turn into an adventure As usual freeing the CPU’s from their SECC cartridgeeven if we are talking about AMD Slot A or Intel Slot 1, is sometimes a hairy business In my case I used a xcorp of flat nosed pliers with a little electrical tape to prevent damage to the catridge and the backplate.
Even aforp, some marks would remain. I firmly secured one arm of the pliers into a vice and with the other arm I applied force. Even so, the entire process required some convincing.
The cartridge was extremely stubborn, it moaned and groaned and squeaked. The upper part of the cartridge gave up extremely easy with the help of a fine screwdriver. The bottom part, near the connector was held tight.
mqnual In the end, only one of the cartidge remained intact, the other three sustained one broken securing hole. This problem will be adressed later. The exterior was in pristine condition. After inspecting closely the cartridges I saw that acop small securing hole that broke off, was a different shape from the others. Three were round and one oval. I guess this was some kind of anti-tamper system to prevent opening and voiding warranty.
The metal prongs from the heatplate had ca collar like shape that would be retained into the plastic holes of the cartridge. The only surprise was the thick paste used to fill the gap between the heatplate and the cache chips. It was brittle and it was poorly applied.
Under no circumstance was I to power up these CPU’s like this. My gut feeling was right, again After removing the plastic cartridge the metal heatplate was held with two metal strips.
These were under some tension an removing them proved challenging. Over the entire process I got fed up with the smell they were releasing and I was anxious to clean them up reallllllllllyyyyyyy well.
5ali16 a distinct smell of old electronics, dust, old paste and God know what else One of the heatsinks, the BIG Cooler Master one, came without the metal retaining clips, so I had to get creative and improvize. I drilled a couple of holes and used a couple that were already in the heatsink and heatplate and with the help of 4 nuts and bolts I tightend the sucker really well I mnual a spread test with some ol’ Arctic Alumina thermal paste I had around.
For the final assembly I used less paste to prevent bleeding. I couldn’t find another so, for the time beeing it will have to do. The only thing amnual was a good PSU with strong 3. It was really cheap and at first I thought that it couldn’t be right. After a phone call my doubts were quickly put to rest. I found localy Arctic branded ones of 1. They seemed right, but in the end the 0.
After I received the Grizzly pad I found out that this width wasn’t good either. It was too thick, hard and brittle.
The Arctic one was way softer. I counted my options and the solution came out in the form of the Arctic blue pad 1. Also the cache chips of the CPU’s were sometimes c oncave some time convex. For each and every CPU I had to cut a smaller piece of Arctic blue pad, place a small clear plastic film over it and press it down with something flat. I used the Cooler Master heatsink. When I assembled the heatplates and the heatsinks I also filled up with thermal pads the outside square holes of the heatplates which made contact with the cache chips for a better transfer of the heat.
From factory there was nothing there. Also I found out that the retaining clips of the heatsinks were out of shape and required some bending back. Initialy the contact between the heatplate and the heatsink was made through a very thin pad but acor I used thermal paste I needed more force.
From factory the gap was to big between the heatplate and manuxl heatsink. Puting back the metal strips that hold down the CPU pcb proved difficult, but in the end I prevailed The trick is to keep the inside tooth of metal strip more inclined while the outside one would have to be more open.
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Then you would have to use a fine nose plier to bend it into the secured position. A steady hand is required. Damage to to PCB can occur easily, so tread carefully Check the picture bellow. After the opening of the cartridges, the holes of the plastic covers were bigger and three of them missed one of the holes. This proved the winning solution. They were held firmly in place. All the fans were cleaned and oiled. One fan was replaced because the original one was ceased.
The CPUS were once again as the day they were born. To this date this was my best experience with a PC and Windows Delta Force – Land Warrior brought back some memories.
Acorp 5ALI61 User Manual
Before even I begun there was a problem. Upon closer inspection I found out that the black prong from a mouse was broken and left inside. I used some double sided tape and a toothpick to fish the part acodp. The seller forgot to mention this shortcoming.
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The only problem was the motherboard. It lacked any OC feature. I couldn’t adjust any timing for the memory. No voltage control, absolutely nothing. Some of the other CPU’s weren’t correctly recongnized.
Back in the day this was a budget motherboard so there is nothing to do about it. The CPU’s will have to axorp tested on another motherboard, preferably a high end one. So in my case this was as good as it gets! The reward was priceless though. I enjoyed every moment and I have no regrets monetary or otherwise gallery: